Reviewing Uncle Zhou

This is not your father’s Hunan restaurant. Uncle Zhou (pronounced Uncle Joe) features the cuisine of Henan, breadbasket of China, especially the province’s well-known wheat noodles. Knife-shaved noodles are brusquely cut from a lump of dough, boiled until wonderfully chewy, and deposited in cool bowls dressed with tomato and egg. Thin, hand-pulled noodles swirl at the bottom of spicy soups; their ribbonlike cousins are great for swabbing the plate. Other are stretched to the fineness of angel hair, baked, then deposited as a crisp thatch atop a whole fish, swimming in a pool of sweet-and-sour sauce. Noodles and fish soak up the sauce; you and your friends soak up the lively atmosphere.

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