Advertisement

SKIP ADVERTISEMENT

City Kitchen

The Beautiful Simplicity of Pasta and Beans

The finished autumnal dish: fresh shelling beans, pancetta, chanterelle mushrooms and pasta. Add Parmesan or pecorino if you wish.Credit...Karsten Moran for The New York Times

We are permitted to heat up the kitchen now that the weather is cooling down. Not that boiling water for pasta will raise the temperature significantly. But there’s a shift of focus and an urge to fill the room with autumn aromas.

I find myself craving the woodsy scent of wild mushrooms. I also want a heartier, more substantial pasta than the kind we usually make for summer meals.

Image
Cook fresh shelling beans with a bay leaf. Dried beans are fine, too, but will take longer to cook.Credit...Karsten Moran for The New York Times

At the farmers’ market a few vendors still have fresh shelling beans. Butter beans, cannellini beans or borlotti (cranberry) beans, sold in their beautiful pods, represent the last-gasp transition into the new season. Simmered in lightly salted water, fresh shell beans are ready in a half-hour or so, as opposed to dried beans’ hour-plus, and their creamy texture is tantalizing.

If shelling beans aren’t available, not to worry; you can use dried white beans and all will be well. In either case, it is a good idea to cook the beans somewhat in advance (a few hours or even a day ahead). When they’re done, let them cool in their own juices. This helps to keep the beans whole and guarantees succulence.

I love the combination of beans and pasta, and I especially like using a little of the beans’ cooking liquid instead of pasta water for finishing the dish; bean broth adds more flavor. For a most satisfying simple bean and pasta dish, warm olive oil in a pan with garlic, rosemary and crushed red pepper. Slip in the cooked drained beans to coat, then toss with al dente spaghetti and a splash of broth.

For a slightly more complex version, consider adding wild mushrooms and a little pancetta or bacon. Golden yellow wild chanterelles are a good option, both for their taste and their looks. They remind me of autumn leaves turning color. Even though chanterelles are available in summer, too, I always think of them in the fall.

Image
The mushrooms are lightly browned, then cooked with garlic, crushed red pepper flakes and chopped rosemary.Credit...Karsten Moran for The New York Times

With wild chanterelles, however, it’s buyer beware. They are pricey, and not every store that sells them offers specimens in good shape. They must be firm and dry, and neither withered nor soggy. If none are available, just use a mixture of cultivated pale-colored oyster mushrooms or royal trumpets instead.

To me, the complementary flavors of olive oil, pancetta, garlic and rosemary are just right, mingling with the lightly browned mushrooms and creamy beans.

Recipe: Wild Mushroom and Butter Bean Pasta

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section D, Page 2 of the New York edition with the headline: The Flavors That Say, ‘It’s Fall’. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

Advertisement

SKIP ADVERTISEMENT