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A Good Appetite

Sweetness Is Found in a Slice

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Melissa Clark makes butter-rich British marmalade cake topped with icing.CreditCredit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Long before the food revolution in England brought us gastro pubs, Jamie Oliver and the Fat Duck, there was British marmalade.

Dense with chunks of candied Seville orange peel and darkened with Demerara sugar, marmalade is one of the gems of traditional British cooking. The finest are thick enough to defy a hot crumpet by refusing to melt down its sides.

Crumpets may be the highest use for good marmalade, but the next best is to bake it into a marmalade cake.

I got hooked on this fine-grained, citrus-scented butter cake on a long-ago trip to London. Back in Brooklyn, I had to make it myself. There was no shortage of recipes online, however, many from British blogs.

Some were for froufrou, layered affairs under fluffy snowdrifts of icing. But I was looking for something simpler and more like a poundcake, a simple slice of sweetness to nibble with a mug of afternoon tea.

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This tender, citrus-scented loaf cake is everything you want with your afternoon tea.Credit...Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times

Nigel Slater’s recipe is just that. It is an elegant and compact loaf with a fragile confectioners’ sugar frosting and a hint of orange in the light and tender cake crumb.

My version doesn’t stray far from his, though I couldn’t help tweaking here and there, like adding a little lime zest to diversify the citrus notes. The biggest change was increasing the marmalade. I put more in the cake batter and stirred some into the glaze as well. It makes the cake a little heavier than Mr. Slater’s, but worth it for the enhanced marmalade flavor.

And a note about that marmalade flavor: It is wholly dependent on the marmalade you use. If you use an insipid marmalade — one that’s mostly made up of cloying, neon orange jelly without many (or any) pieces of peel — you’ll get a mild cake. Pleasant, but not as intense.

Seek out the good stuff, preferably made from bitter Seville oranges. I was able to find a quality brand of thick-cut marmalade (also known as coarse-cut marmalade) in the international foods section of my local supermarket. When I first looked for it, I was discouraged; the jam aisle only had that runny, overly sweet kind. But around the corner, wedged between the coconut milk, red curry paste and chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, was a modest British section with Bird’s custard powder, golden syrup and several kinds of good marmalade.

If you find it, buy a couple of jars. Because you also may get hooked on marmalade cake. You’ll see.

Recipe: Orange Marmalade Cake

A version of this article appears in print on  , Section D, Page 2 of the New York edition with the headline: Sweetness Is Found in a Slice. Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe

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